Care Guide
Shoe Care 101: The Complete Guide to Keeping Every Pair at Its Best
Whether you own one pair of dress shoes or a full collection spanning leather, suede, canvas, and everything in between, the way you care for your footwear determines how long it lasts and how good it looks along the way. This guide walks you through every step, every product category, and every material so you always know exactly what to do.
Why Shoe Care Matters
Proper care extends the lifespan of leather footwear by up to 50%, significantly enhancing investment value. Beyond longevity, the frequency of care is less important than the consistency of your overall routine. True preservation comes from a disciplined cycle of cleaning after each wear, periodic conditioning, and proper maintenance.
Step 1: Clean First, Always
No matter the material, cleaning comes first. Applying conditioner or polish over dirt traps grime, clogs pores, and can cause long-term damage.
Leather: Use a dedicated leather cleaner and a soft cloth or brush to lift dirt and surface stains. Brush away any excess dried mud or dirt with a soft brush, then clean away remaining dirt with a damp cloth or gentle wet wipe. Avoid harsh soaps or household detergents that strip natural oils.
Suede and Nubuck: Use a suede brush to remove dirt and grime with small, gentle, light strokes. The brass bristles are effective for dislodging dried dirt and lifting compacted nap, while the crepe rubber side is ideal for gently erasing scuffs and restoring texture. Never use liquid cleaners directly on dry suede, as they can darken the material and alter the texture.
Canvas and Fabric: Wash canvas shoes by hand or in a washing machine on a gentle cycle with cold water to prevent shrinking and warping. For spot cleaning, use mild soap and a soft brush. Air-dry in a shaded area to avoid fabric discolouration.
Sneakers: Sneakers often combine multiple materials in a single shoe, so treat each zone separately. Remove laces and insoles first, and wash them separately in warm water with a small amount of detergent. For the upper, identify the material and use the appropriate cleaner: leather cleaner for leather panels, mild soap solution with a soft brush for mesh and fabric, and a suede brush and eraser for suede panels. When cleaning canvas sneakers, do not scrub too hard, as it may cause fraying or fading. Use a soft brush or cloth to clean the surface gently. For the midsole and outsole, use a stiff brush with a mild cleaning solution and scrub in short strokes.
Synthetics: Keep synthetic shoes looking new with regular cleaning using mild soap and water and a soft cloth or brush to tackle any stains or dirt.
Products to use: Cleaners, Wipes and Cloths, Kits and Brushes.
Step 2: Tackle Stains and Scuffs
Some marks need more targeted attention before you move on to conditioning.
For stubborn marks on suede, a dedicated suede eraser block can be carefully rubbed over the affected area to lift the stain without damaging the surrounding nap. On leather, a specialized stain remover applied with a clean cloth works on scuffs, salt marks, and discoloration without affecting the surrounding finish.
Run the suede eraser over deep stains and do not be afraid to apply pressure. After using the eraser, use a suede brush to smooth out and bring the colour back into the shoe.
For spills, act fast. Blotting is the proper technique for handling sudden liquid spills. Rubbing forces the liquid and potential stain deeper into the porous leather hide. Immediately blot the area with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth to absorb the moisture.
Products to use: Erasers and Stain Removers, Wipes and Cloths
Step 3: Condition and Nourish
Once clean, leather needs to be fed. Conditioning restores the natural oils lost through wear, prevents cracking, and keeps the material supple.
Plan on conditioning shoes after wearing them 5 to 10 times. Conditioning with this regularity helps give leather a smooth, supple appearance. In colder or drier climates, condition more frequent as extreme temperatures accelerate drying.
Apply cream or wax with a soft cloth, work it in gently, allow it to absorb for 15 to 20 minutes, then buff with a horsehair brush. Conditioning does not need to be done every time you polish. Three to six times a year is enough for most people in most climates. Always condition your shoes whenever you use a cleaner.
Note: Do not apply conditioner to suede, nubuck, patent leather, or calf hair. Suede has its own conditioning sprays formulated specifically for the material.
Products to use: Creams and Wax, Kits and Brushes.
Step 4: Polish and Restore Shine
Polishing goes beyond aesthetics. Leather is a natural material that can dry out, crack, and lose its suppleness over time. Quality shoe polish contains conditioners and nutrients that penetrate the leather, keeping it moisturized and flexible.
As a general rule, polish leather shoes approximately every six wears, or every 4 to 6 weeks, adjusting based on how often you wear them and the conditions they face.
Apply polish in thin, even coats. Applying polish too frequently without properly cleaning the shoes first is a common mistake. This can cause a thick buildup that traps dirt, clogs the leather's pores, and can eventually lead to cracking.
For shoes that have faded significantly, or after years of wear, a colour restorer or edge dressing can bring back depth and finish to areas that polish alone cannot reach.
Products to use: Creams and Wax, Restoration and Customization.
Step 5: Protect Before You Wear
Protection is your best investment, and it should happen before the first wear, not after the first stain.
Before the first wear, a high-quality waterproofing spray should be applied evenly from a distance of approximately 30 centimetres, allowing ample time for the solvent to evaporate and the protective barrier to cure completely. This creates a hydrophobic layer that repels water and prevents stains from penetrating the delicate fibres.
Protector sprays work across leather, suede, canvas, and synthetics, though always check the label for material compatibility. Reapply every few months, or more frequently if you wear the shoes often or in wet conditions.
For days when rain or rough terrain is unavoidable, shoe covers offer a physical barrier that keeps your footwear completely dry underneath.
Products to use: Protectors (sprays), Protectors (Covers).
Step 6: Freshen the Inside
The outside of your shoe gets most of the attention, but the inside is where odour and bacteria build up fastest. Moisture from daily wear creates the conditions for both.
Use a deodorant spray or odour-neutralizing powder after each wear, particularly for shoes worn without socks. Allow shoes to air out fully before storing them. Rotating between pairs gives each one time to dry out completely between wears, which is one of the simplest and most effective habits for extending shoe life. For sneakers, when your shoes and laces feel dry to the touch inside and out, they are ready to wear again. Never put sneakers near a heat source, as it warps the sole and breaks down adhesives.
Products to use: Deodorants and Sprays.
Step 7: Store Them Properly
How you store your shoes when you are not wearing them matters just as much as how you clean them.
Insert cedar shoe trees immediately after wearing. Shoe trees absorb moisture from sweat, help deodorize the shoes, and, most importantly, maintain the shoe's shape to prevent creasing. Cedar is preferred over plastic because it actively absorbs moisture rather than simply holding the shape.
Store shoes in a dry, well-ventilated area to prevent the growth of mould and mildew. Keep them away from direct sunlight, which fades colour, and away from heat sources, which dry out leather.
Dust bags protect shoes from airborne particles and light scratches when stored long-term. Stackable shoe boxes with clear fronts keep your collection organized without exposing pairs to dust.
Products to use: Storage Bags, Boxes and Organizers.
Step 8: Restore What Needs Saving
Worn soles, faded uppers, scuffed toe caps, and peeling edges do not have to mean the end of a pair. With the right restoration products, most damage is reversible.
Colour restorers and leather dyes can bring faded or scratched leather back to its original shade.
Sole adhesives reattach lifting soles cleanly and durably.
Edge dressings refinish the welt and sole edge. For a complete transformation, leather paint and primers let you customize the colour entirely.
Restoration is not just about saving money. It is the most sustainable thing you can do for your wardrobe.
Products to use: Restoration and Customization Paints, Erasers and Stain Removers
The Golden Rules
- Always clean before you condition or polish.
- Protect before the first wear, not after the first stain.
- Use shoe trees after every wear.
- Rotate your pairs so each one gets time to breathe.
- Store in dust bags or boxes away from heat and sunlight.
- Address stains and scuffs immediately rather than leaving them to set.
- Never dry leather near direct heat. Always air dry at room temperature.